As part of the Feast of the Archangel San MIguel, the Danza de los Voladores (Dance of the Flyers), although considered heathen and partially eliminated by the Spanish Conquistadors has now been incorporated, like many other Aztec and other dances, into the Catholic celebrations. A pre-hispanic ritual asking the Gods to end drought, and believed to have originated about 500 years ago with the Nahua, Huastec and Otomi peoples in central Mexico, it eventually spread throughout most of Mesoamerica. The tallest tree in the forest was cut down and stripped, and re-erected in the village for the ceremony. Seen here in San Miguel de Allende, four youths slowly fly down from the top of the pole as the ropes attached to them unwind. A fifth Voladore on top of the pole dances and plays a flute and drum. The ceremony is recognized as part of the Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.
Danza de los Voladores
Happy Feet
Our regular evening stroll into the Jardin usually lands us in the middle of some wild activity or other. On most occasions we have no idea what it might be in aid of, although in Mexico, not much reason is needed. A friend of ours was once told by a taxi driver when asking about a particular street festival “Oh, it’s for some Virgin or other”. Yesterday evening, whether for some Virgin or other or not, these wonderful feather-draped dancers, with rattling seed pods around their feet, were going at it ten to the dozen, including the levitating guitar player.
Look Carefully
A computer rendering – or the real thing? Sadly, the real thing. This is Artesana, a new upscale development in San Miguel, which might as well be in any movie backlot or theme park anywhere in the World. A pristine, fictionalized, soul-less version of San Miguel where all those inconvenient things like real down-to-earth San Miguelans have been dispensed with. Few figures are ever likely to stroll down these streets, as the whole pastiche is serviced by a subterranean road right underneath here. This means no nasty dirt in which to grow nasty trees with annoying leaves. You can park your car and enter your ultra-secure environment from below without ever brushing shoulders with the hoi-poloi. Whether a result of rampant paranoia, or simply an inability to be prepared to wrestle with or rejoice in reality, this is apparently the dismal gated dream of how some folks now view home. The sky is real however.
¡Mexicanos, Viva México!
On the evening of 15 September 1810, in Dolores, Father Hidalgo rang the Church bell, called for Mexican independence from the shackles of Spanish colonialism, and finished by crying “¡Mexicanos, Viva México!”. Known now as the Grito de Dolores (Shout of Dolores), it is re-enacted throughout Mexico each year as seen here in the Jardin in San Miguel de Allende, just down the road from what is now called Dolores Hidalgo. Following a reading of the text of the Grito are fireworks, tequila, and an awful lot of noise extending into the official day of Mexican Independence on the 16th.
9/11 Search for Those Missing
In the days following the attack on the World Trade Center, the focus was on cleaning up the site and finding any remains of those lost. This shot, looking into the “Pit”, was taken from the damaged offices of some of our colleagues who witnessed the attack at very close quarters. As their office was partially destroyed, we took them into our studio on Union Square and I had the opportunity to take this photograph when helping them move some of their equipment and records out of their old space. In the foreground, the battered but still essenitally intact remains of Fritz Koenig’s sphere sculpture can be seen. It has now been relocated as part of the Memorial landscape.
In the Days That Followed 9/11
In the days that followed the attack on the World Trade Center in New York, Union Square, which for a while was as far South as you were allowed to travel in the City, became the center for an ongoing vigil which lasted several weeks. Working in my studio there, I would stop from time to time to go down into the Park to wander among the thousands of makeshift memorials and pleas for information of lost family and friends.
Remembering 9/11
Although it is now seared into my memory, there was not a great deal of concern at first as we stood there in Union Square looking at the towers outlined against a beautiful blue fall sky. We were at first simply intrigued by the strange smoking scar across the face of the North Tower. Not until the second tower was struck were we shocked into the realization that this was no accident. Still, the full horror of what was happening did not become evident until an hour later, when to our utter disbelief, the South Tower began to collapse, sending out the billowing cloud of all that was left of some of nearly three thousand lives to be lost that day. A wail, which still haunts me, rose from the crowd, some of whom fell to their knees and beat the paving stones with their fists in despair. Then the second tower fell. Dumbstruck and numb, and not knowing what else to do, most of us eventually went on to our places of work, although only to try to come to some kind of understanding with each other about what had just happened. The City fell eerily quiet. But a sense of intense bonding and closeness took place, and by the evening, as smoke continued to drift overhead, a strange calmness returned, and the sidewalk cafés were as busy as ever, even though conversation was only about one thing. Many of us re-evaluated our lives. We all knew nothing was ever going to be the same again.
Spencer Tunick in San Miguel de Allende
While we swelter in the heat of NY, it is even more frustrating that such things as the TEDx conference is going on in SMA as we write, and that other fun capers are happening such as a visit by Spencer Tunick. He has photographed many nude installations all over the World, and has now been draping nudes over the landscape of SMA, including on the gas pump on San Francisco, and the Bar San Miguel on Insurgentes, both just just around the corner from us. Check out this video of Spencer Tunick in San Miguel de Allende.
Andy Goes to Market
Immediately to the north of Union Square, on what used to be a part of Broadway but now furnished with tables, umbrellas, and planting, a ten-foot tall chrome statue of Andy Warhol by artist Rob Pruitt, strolls toward the Union Square farmers market, shopping bag in hand. Congratulations to the Department of Traffic and their NYC Plaza Program for helping to turn the Big Apple into a more friendly city by transforming this, and dozens of other expanses of underused asphalt, into much appreciated public space.
Stamps of Approval
Not many folks ever think about the process of design when using their toaster or making a phone call, but the whole look and feel of our lives is shaped, literally, by the work of designers. It is therefore heartwarming (for those of us who attempt to earn our living doing this) to see this set of stamps honoring the work of twelve of the greatest industrial designers of the 20th Century. Just issued – get them at your post office now.