There’s Carnival, there’s Mardi Gras, but in Mexico there’s egg-bonking. For a couple of days before Lent, folks in San Miguel go nuts smashing confetti or ash-filled colored eggs, known as cascarones, on the heads of innocent bystanders. All around the perimeter of the Jardin, having spent an entire year eating nothing but omelettes, the overweight and cholesterol-infused cascarone vendors will sell you a bagfull for 20 pesos. Our friend Carmen directed us to this video about Cascarones, featuring her sister Maria.
Sopa de pato. What to do with the eggs?
Sopa de Pato. What to do with the feathers?
Last Friday we were awakened at seven by the sound of drums coming from the Jardin. This troupe of traditional indian dancers, one of several in for the day, kept at it until about nine in the evening, when they had to stop because it was time for the creepy light show (more on that later). Very impressive, although I think it’s more about the feathers now than the dancing. I imagine this is all based on the sort of thing that used to go on in the forecourt at Cañada de la Virgen. Disappointed no human sacrifice.
Should you attempt the hike to the Pyramids?

The trek to the Pyramids superimposed on an aerial of San Miguel, to indicate approx distance and grade
A lot of people have quite correctly expressed concern regarding the trek to Cañada de la Virgen. Perhaps the following (based on our best information, and our own hike) will help. The visitor center is just off the SMA to Leon road (67), and here you will buy tickets (30 pesos) and get on a bus which will take you to wherever the driver decides to drop you off. This varies, as although the ten kilometer cobbled road is beautifully built, the proposed turnaround at the end hasn’t yet materialized. Thus, the drivers stop considerably short of this wherever they feel they can most easily turn around (each driver has his own idea of this), which adds considerably to what will eventually be a 900 meter trek over rising ground to the archeological site.
The best way of describing the journey now, is to compare it with walking in SMA from down by the River, all the way up Canal and San Francisco to the very top where it makes a turn and becomes Salida Real a Queretero. This is also pretty indicative of the varying grades involved (although it may be a slight exaggeration, and the last stretch is quite flat, not like the top of San Francisco). Eventually, when the turnaround is completed, the trip will be reduced to that indicated by the solid yellow line in the above photo with the Jardin at the center (you can click on the photo to make it larger).
You are out in open desert, so a hat or even an umbrella is useful, as is a stick (its a bit rugged in places). A bottle of water is essential. This is not a trip, in our opinion, for anyone with any kind of mobility problems. That said, if you can possibly make it, it is well worth the effort.
Cañada de la Virgen Pyramids
Built beginning about 1,500 years ago, and occupied until about 1,000 years ago, the Cañada de la Virgen pyramid complex lies just fifteen miles or so to the west of the town, and within the municipality of San Miguel. It is believed that the builders were initially Otomi, who at that time had strong Zapotec ties, and this would have been their center of religion, culture, and administration for the area. The site, which consists of four separate but connected complexes (one still remains to be dug) has just been substantially excavated, renovated, and opened to the public.
The orientation of the structures are related to the movement of the sun, moon, and other celestial objects. The Complex A, main pyramid, above, sits at the head of a large sunken court, probably used for ball games and ceremonial activities, with stepped sides for seating. On it’s peak, but not open to the public, the Temple of the Thirteen Heavens houses what is left of a simple mural. Complex B sits adjacent with a smaller pyramid at the corner of another sunken court, and a third structure, Complex D, features an unusual small stepped circular pyramid and circular court.
Hola
So, where to begin. This website will be dedicated to bits and pieces from San Miguel de Allende, Mexico (right in the middle), and New York, both City and State, and wherever else we end up. Hopefully, what we post will be either interesting or helpful. Enough said. Welcome.